Wide range of (FSC) Tropical Wooden Flooring

In our new showroom (Brenchley Mews, Charing) we now have the widest range in Tropical (FSC) Natural Wooden Flooring available.

From 'standard' Merbau, Iroco to even more exotic spiecis as Wenge, Curupau Dark, Tarara Ammarillia (see pictures) for creating that extra special design in your home.

Most are availalbe in our 'Duoplank' wood-engineered range, with it's 6mm solid top layer based on 15mm water-resistant-plywood (= load-bearing) and all can be supplied pre-oiled for easy and speedy installation.

For more samples visit our online-shop.

(FSC means: The wood in this product comes from well managed forests independently certified in accordance with the rules of the Forest Stewardship Council.)

Showroom open

Opening times:
Tuesday till Saturday 9.30am till 5pm
(or give us a call on 0845-1661190 to arrange an appointment for an alternative day or time, we are more than happy to accommodate you.

7 sample floors, over 60 large sample boards: from Solid Oak, Tropical Duoplank to Wood-Engineered 3-strip Oak Rustic with Profiloc; which by the way is on offer at the moment: £ 24.95 (plus VAT) per sq m.

For directions to our showroom at Brenchley Mews, School Road, Charing Kent: see here

2 down, 5 to go

Wood You Like's new showroom in Charing Kent is definitely taken shape.
Already two of the smaller floors are in place. We used a simple, but effective Oak 3-strip Wood-Engineered for the kitchen and wc-area.

During next week the other sample floors (mainly from the Duoplank range) will arrive and be installed as will our stands for large sample boards (80) resulting in a modern, fully dedicated to Natural Wooden Flooring showroom.

Watch this space for our opening offer.

New showroom takes shape

Wood You Like's new showroom at the Brenchley Mews retail development in Charing Village, Kent will get her sample floors beginning next week!
In total we will install 5 types of our 'famous' Duoplank (load-bearing full-plank Wood-Engineered boards) in the showroom and are ready to accept more than 80 sample boards of various other Natural Wooden Flooring (from Solid, 3-strip and full-plank Wood-Engineered to Wood-Veneer and Parquet/Herringbone flooring)

Watch this space for more news and our opening offer.

Not one wall is square to another !

Hi, We are laying new t&g pine floorboards in our living room over the existing floorboards. (we have left the new ones in the room for a couple of months to dry / season) . Not one wall is square to another - or straight! so my husband is considering laying the new floor diagonally in the room. We think that this will not only look original but also get round the problem of the room not being square. As he will be secret nailing it to the existing floor, he doesn't have to follow the joists. Do you know of any reason why this shouldn't be done?? We can't see this in any design etc books that we have looked up. Thank you so much for any help you can give, and for such an informative site.

You have found a perfect solution for this problem!
The only things you and your husband must be aware of are:

• any 'hidden' pipes, cables underneath the existing floor
  
• to use proper nails. If you would hire a Portanailer the hire-people will know what kind of nails he should use.
• Installing diagonal will cause extra saw-waste.
  

Good luck with the job

Installing Solid Oak Panel Floor

hello,
I wish to install a solid oak panel floor. I can nail this on to an existing wooden floor, however, there is also an adjoining concrete floor that is on the same level.

Q. Is it possible to lay this timber without having to use a floating floor, otherwise there will be a 40mm step from the dining room to the kitchen?

What are my current options?

Yes it's possible to install the floor the way you described. If I understand correctly, you will not lay the floor also on the concrete part.
When installing a floor (nailing, glueing or floating) your underfloor type has to be of one sort. If you have two or more sorts (like existing floorboards and part concrete) it's best to install harboard first to create one type of underfloor to prevent difference in (moist) reactions of the floor.
For more info and advice see our DIY-site

Installing Kempass on pine floorboards

Hi:

I've been reading your posts. I'm very impressed with your generosity sharing your knowledge not by being after a sale.
I wish I had seen this forum (DIYnot) and your website before I bought the wood for a renovation I have underway.

I bought several months ago Elka/Kempass solid wood floor about 18mm thick. It has been seasoning for months in each of the rooms.
I want to use plywood over the current pine floorboards. I am thinking of using 6mm plywood and Elastilon on all the rooms of the first floor. None of the rooms are larger or wider than 3.5m but I intend to have uniform transitions between the rooms (no splitting of areas)

I've searched for plywood and have found different types. Which plywood
would you recommend. (Would you have plywood to sell for flooring purposes?)

I am planning to screw the plywood onto the current boards (don't want to use nails- far tooo permanent to my perception and too messy to remove if one happens to need to do any plumbing rework). I am wondering about gaps between the plywood sheets and overall gaps between the plywood and the walls.

By the way, would you have Elka/Kempass hardwood for sale? I will need for the ground floor. That is one I didn't buy as I am doing this project in stages.

Many thanks;

Aldo


;-) Thanks for your kind words.

To answer most of your questions:
If possible, check the moist level in the Kempas wood. Normally Oak and other wood-types must be between 8 and 12%, but experience has taught us that with Kempas it's best to be UNDER 9% (we've learned the hard-way ;-)
That's also the reason we don't do solid kempass, but if you want we can source Kempass wood-engineered full-plank for you.

Reading your question, I presume your pine floorboards are not even. If so, 6mm plywood could tackle this if it's not that bad (just slightly cupped, but we would recommend a thicker version minimum 12mm.
If the cupping is not that bad, you could also place strips of thin hardboard in the 'holes' of the floorboards, to prevent a 'bouncing-effect'. An alternative would be OSB boards.

You're right about the screws, we either use them (every 25cm, so still a lot) or staples but then you need a nail/staple gun. It's fine to leave a tiny gap between the plywood boards (wood will always work, but the cross-multi layered construction of the plywood should prevent excessive expansion) and leave a wider gap between the plywood and the walls, like you would with the wood (also handy for 'hiding' cables).
And no, we don't sell plywood, even we go to Wickes, B&Q or local timber yard for that ;-)

Elastilon is a good product, but read the instructions properly, it takes a bit of getting used to, specially the first bit.

Hope this helps, feel free to contact us with further questions, or check our DIY-site